Final Road Trip to Segou – February 18, 2012

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With the ceremony scheduled for Tuesday, we had one last weekend together with the ambulance before the journey home – except Dennis. Earlier in the week, officials assured us that the customs issue would be resolved quickly and the hand over would happen by the end of the week. Dennis gambled that everything would go according to “plan”, so he had booked a flight home for Saturday evening. Sure enough, customs took all week to clear and the official delivery would take place the following week. Dennis was going to miss the ambulance ceremony.

Personally, I was looking forward to spending the weekend unwinding from rally, and getting over a head cold i caught in the Nioro. I was all set to spend the next 48 hours relaxing on a lounge chair by the Bamako Hotel Plage pool, when Mike floated the idea of taking one last road trip to the Segou Music Festival. Apparently the Segou Music Festival was a big deal here. Just about anybody who’s anybody was going to be there, people from around the world reorganize their lives to find ways to checkout this annual event and fate just dropped it on our lap. Mike pointed out that Segou was only 300 km away, and we had an ‘in’ with the headline performer, Salif Keita. All that was nice, but putting the ambulance back on the road and exposing it to more unknown African obstacles made me really nervous.

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On February 18, 2012 Dennis Liaw became the second Last Responder to head home from Africa. Although he was going to miss the ceremony and the meeting with the Mali Health Organizing Project, he wasn’t too broken up about it. I can’t blame him. After all that’s happened, it’s tough to not put “returning home” at the top of the priority list. His flight would be stopping in Casablanca and arriving in JFK. We wished each other good luck and parted ways. Dennis was off to the airport. Mike and I hopped in the ambulance and drove toward Segou.

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In the end, i convinced myself that even if I wasn’t feeling 100%, this may be my one and only chance to see the festival. Sure there was some risk to the ambulance, but so long as Mike was in the driver’s seat, i could always blame him if something happened. The drive took about 5 hours, 2 hours longer than expected. By the time we had arrived in Segou, the party had already started. In fact, we were catching the tail end of a week long party – “Last Responders” once again. Segou was packed with locals, tourists, and plenty of security. Despite the large volume of people coming and going, they checked each and every person for festival passes before letting them in. I saw one young kid who couldn’t have been more than 15 yrs old get caught trying to sneak in. A soldier grabbed him by the scruff of the neck, pulled him aside, and smacked him in the back of the head.

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The festival was divided into two areas. The stage was on a barge anchored along the Niger River. Bleachers and chairs were setup along the bank facing the barge. Behind the wall of seats, the second area featured a giant 100 foot wide screen projecting a live video feed of the stage. The screen faced a row of cafe/restaurants, where patrons could enjoy food and drink during the show. When Mike and I arrived, we tried to make our way toward the stage where Salif and his crew were hanging. We didn’t get very far with that. After about 30 minutes of standing shoulder to shoulder with shouting Malians, we decided to split up. I went off and found myself an open seat way in the rear cafe area. Mike hung around the stadium, searching for a way forward.

Salif Keita took the stage about an hour later. He started his performance with a forceful Bambara speech that fired up the crowd – minus me because i had no idea what was said. Once the band started playing and Salif began singing, the crowd erupted. Every single Malian in the stadium was singing and dancing along. I slumped on my plastic chair and rested my face against my right palm looking like a total party pooper. I sat silently in peaceful contemplation until I was disrupted by the familiar sound of British-English coming from three girls sitting on a bench nearby. The three girls were trying hard to converse with a Malian urologist about the ubiquity of black sauce in Malian cuisine. I knew he was a urologist because earlier he was trying to diagnose the cause of my fatigue. I think he came up with some diagnosis but I didn’t understand much of what he said. If you asked me, I had just caught “Too Much Africa Syndrome”.

Felicity, Jemma and Rachel were working for the UK NGO International Citizen Service. Their project involved helping disable children manage their lives, integrate into local societies and they had a 3 month contract. I was aghast. I made it abundantly clear to them my feelings that 3 months in Africa sounded like the most miserable thing in the world. Here were three young, chipper, upbeat girls on their great African jaunt, and i was raining down on their parade by telling them that I couldn’t stand Africa. I was enthusiastically looking forward to my flight home and i missed my life of running water, fast internet, and ice cream. They all seemed a bit turned off by my negativity. Mike eventually found his way back to my area. He introduced himself as the teammate from Philadelphia and the positive force in the team. All three express their condolences to him in having to deal with a crabby teammate like me for the past nine weeks. At the end of the evening we exchanged numbers and mike promise them we could give them a ride back to Bamako.

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The following morning we got a call from Felicity about a ride back to Bamako. It was only proper for us to help fellow English speakers in a foreign land – and of course we wanted to show off our ambulance one last time. Rachel introduced us to Fran, Bridie, and Megan, the other half of the ICS Bamako team. With me on driver duty, Mike had the “difficult” task of entertaining six attractive young girls in the back of the ambulance under our disco ball blasting Steppenwolf’s “Born to be Wild”. By the time we got back to Bamako, we secured 6 more Facebook ‘likes’ for Last Responders page.

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Only when you travel…

What I experienced in my few weeks of journey was a pure lust of travelling. I never knew where my next meal was coming from or what it was. I do not remember having more than one meal a day. Showers were every 8-9 days. My sleeping bag was my bed and the ambulance my home. The route to the next destination was always unknown and so was the time of arrival. Modern day comforts were rare.
Toilets were the gas stations.

Water was always scarce. Food choices were limited. A 65 litre backpack was enough for my travel. We planned our own route. Cleanliness was relative. I stunk only if others did not. Natural spring water off the ground was source of showers.

A fresh water well. We got showers here just as a tanker was rolling in for a fill up.

Beaches were places where you could naturally pick oysters and muscles to feed yourself.

Oysters off the Beach

No one spoke the same language as you did. I was always developing a new way to express and communicate.

Only when you travel you realize that there are uncountable stars and they appear every night.

Stars in Western Sahara

When you travel you enjoy the one meal of the day you cooked for yourself.

When you travel, you realize the joy of finding a place after being lost for hours.


If you travel, you could meet different people and experience different cultures.

They recognize you by your country. When you travel you have the opportunity to represent your country. You are watched, observed and perceived by your actions. You are now the ambassador of your country.

You have the opportunity to communicate and explain what your country stands for. Because for them, you are the country. The impression you leave with them becomes the impression of your country. No newspaper or news channel can change that.

Only when you travel, you are reinforced the value of money. Earning money is important, but valuing what you earn is even more important.

When you travel alone, you realize how valuable are the important people in your life. It could be your parents, sibling and friends who have accompanied you throughout. Travelling opens doors for new thoughts, accept people, respect their opinions, experience local customs.

Only when you travel, you understand the joy of giving and giving up.

When you travel, you feel the world is much much bigger than you think.

Only when you travel…

- Kunal

Photographs – Team Last Responders

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Crossing the Finish Line – February 17

Last Drive down to Bamako

We left Nioro Customs station the morning of February 17. Aside from the poor bird that Dennis ran over, the drive down to Bamako was utterly uneventful. For once, we had a smooth drive, free of mechanical and bureaucratic obstacles. We arrived in Bamako at 2:00 pm. By 3:00 PM the ambulance parked at its new home, the Center for Development of Vaccines.

The Finish Line

Celebratory water!

Several doctors were at the entrance waiting for us when we pulled up to the main building. We gave them a brief tour of the ambulance and they were all utterly impressed with the made-in-USA, Wheeled Coach workmanship.  The doctors invited us into the office for celebratory bottles of cold water and instant espresso. Dr Keita explained to us some of the work they did, including the treatment of leprosy, albinism, and skin cancer. The region that the center covered included Ghana, Burina Faso, and of course Mali. With such a large area, reaching out to remote villages is really tough. We are all hoping that this ambulance will be able to help the doctors deliver care to remote areas more effectively.

Next Monday, the team will be visiting the Mali Health Organizing Project. Tuesday, the ambulance will be handed over in a ceremony attended by officials and of course Salif Keita himself. Each Last Responder will be going their separate ways by Wednesday. This weekend, Team Last Responders would be taking one last road trip out to the Segou Music Festival before saying goodbye to the Timbuktu Challenge.

In front of the CDV

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Last Night in Nioro – February 16

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Last Night at Customs

For once, the prospect of spending a night at the Nioro customs parking lot did not make me want to stick a needle in my eye. We did have the option to drive through the night to Bamako. That option wasn’t even discussed. The last thing we needed was a midnight collision resulting in a donkey head lodged in our windshield.

Nioro du Sahel

Nioro Town CenterWhen we first drove through Nioro du Sahel, I remember being amazed that even here in the middle of nowhere, the most visible structures at town center were banks – just like New York City. I guess Nioro being a border town, banks recognized it as a prime location for semi-functional ATM’s. The first ATM I visited didn’t work at all. From the second ATM, I requested 100,000 CFA (200 dollars). I received 40,000 CFA (80 dollars). On top of that, it dispensed four barely recognizable bank notes that looked worse than used toilet paper.

Aside from banks, convenience shops can be found in the town center. Some shops offered drinks proudly displayed in well lit, clear glass refrigerators. I was always a sucker for that. Every time I opened up one of those things, I’d reach in expecting an ice cold drink, simultaneously hoping to be blasted by a cloud of cold air. The refrigerators were always broken, the drinks were always luke cool.

We returned to the Nioro town center for one final meal.  As usual, children  carrying shiny tin cans flocked toward us the moment we exited the car. The youngest ones (8-9 yrs old) jumped in front of us and overtly asked for “gateau” or “cadeau”. The older ones (10-12 yrs old) silently hovered. They always met eye contact with sorry looking eyes followed by inaudible whisper for help. The children followed us to mike’s favorite food stall and hung back about 3 meters away.   I felt their eyes on us as we ate.

Mike's Favorite Food Stall

At the front of the food stall, there is a hook nailed to the wooden post supporting the awning. On that hook, hung a thin crooked metal rod a quarter inch wide. The metal rod was the reason the children hung back from us. I hadn’t noticed it until the children inching closer to us scattered like flies when the assistant cook reached for the rod. One patron, annoyed at the gathering children, also reached out for the stick yielding same effect. Apparently the rod isn’t “staff only”. McDonald’s provides complimentary ketchup, mayo packets, and napkins. Chinese take out joints offer soy sauce and chopsticks. Nioro food stalls provide metal rods to shoo away begging children.

 Children of Nioro

One child managed to grab a plate of left over beans and dump its contents into his can. The child promptly returned the plate on the stack of dirty bowls before getting forcefully shooed away by the assistant cook with the stick. I can’t imagine what would have happened if the child tried to run off with the plate. The other children gathered around him to share the spoils: a mouthful of beans. These kids led hard lives.

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6 nights in Bamako, return to Nioro

Compared to Nioro Hotel Customs, the Bamako Hotel Plage was a completely different planet. Not even the daily trash burning next door changed my opinion that this was absolute paradise. Our rooms had electricity, air conditioning, and hot running water something I hadn’t seen since Rabat. The Hotel offered wifi, a spectacular view of the Niger River and, best of all, Italian food prepared by real Italians. The Salif Keita Foundation had generously prepared these accommodations for us and I must say that I’m really thankful. I’m also glad to report that I took my first modern shower in Africa. That’s right, I hadn’t taken a shower since December 20th, 2011, Tarifa. The black water streaming down the shower drain was pretty impressive.

I had hoped that all the paperwork would get sorted out on Monday as cited on Friday, but deep down I knew it wasn’t going to happen. I have yet to see a bureaucracy in Africa get anything done in a timely fashion.  We sat around the hotel Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday waiting for news that we’re good to go back to Nioro. It’s amazing how every step forward  seemed to reveal a new arbitrary complication. This was all mind boggling frustrating, but at least we weren’t waiting at Niroro.

Thursday morning we received the shocking news that we were good to go and a car had been prepared for us. After all we’ve been through, good news is always hard to swallow. The drive back to Nioro was a completely different experience from the drive down on Feb 10. First of all, the car was a 4×4 Toyota HiLux. Secondly, the car wasn’t held together with rope and rubber cement. Thirdly, the car was equipped with air-conditioning. And finally, everything was prepaid. We didn’t have to wonder whether we were getting ripped off by some insidious coalition of Malian taxi drivers bent on squeezing every last dime out of foreign travellers.  Amazingly, the drive was actually uneventful – no car switching, no break down, no stopping to check up on the car’s engine. Not only that, it took half the amount of time it took to come down. We departed Bamako at 1:30 and arrived at 6:30, a mere 5 hours as compared to 10 hours – amazing.

At 6:30 PM, February 16, 2011, Team Last Responders reunited with the  ambulance at Nioro, stamped customs paper in hand.

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